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What Is Customized Skincare?
Customized skincare, like the popular telehealth service Curology, claims to create personalized skincare solutions. But can this compare to an in person evaluation by a dermatologist to offer similar treatments tailored to your needs? The answer is maybe—with some caveats.
Cost Matters
Most prescription topical treatments prescribed by dermatologists are affordable, thanks to generic options covered by insurance. While name-brand prescriptions can be pricey, they’re rarely necessary unless a specific benefit outweighs the cost. Compounded treatments, created in specialty pharmacies, offer another level of customization but can be more expensive since they’re not typically covered by insurance.
Pro Tip: Generic topical treatments may already meet your needs at a fraction of the cost. We often can combine generic products to achieve the same effect without breaking the bank. Online sites that offer "tailored regimens" often promote their own products which adds to cost.
Why Single Ingredients Matter
Compounding multiple active ingredients into a single cream can cause irritation, especially if one ingredient is too strong. Separating ingredients makes it easier to identify and address any side effects, such as excessive dryness or redness.
Example: Many patients use tretinoin (commonly found in acne routines), but they need to pause use before waxing. With a compounded formula, they may have to skip their entire routine, risking acne flares. Single products provide more flexibility.
Pro Tip: As tempting as it is to receive an all in one product that combines several actives in one product, there is a reason why this is not already manufactured by major brands. They are difficult to use practically since the compounded ingredients contribute to irritation and its harder to navigate altering regimens wihtout buying more products.
The Online Acne Platform Model
Online platforms offer a teledermatology service where nurse practitioners "design" "custom" "super bottles" with Rx-only and over-the-counter (OTC) ingredients. Users submit photos and skin surveys to receive formulations like azelaic acid, niacinamide, and tranexamic acid, for example. These formulations claim to target conditions like redness, wrinkles, and acne.
However, there are challenges with this model:
Limited Expertise: Many of these platforms use nurse practitioners. There is no recognized training and certifiying bodies or programs to ensure that these providers are qualified to accurately diagnose and treat skin reliably. Differentiating between skin conditions like acne, rosacea, or folliculitis from photos can lead to ineffective or aggravating treatments. I have had numerous patients present with failures of treatments from programs like these. They have shown me their products and clearly were misdiagnosed. This adds time, cost, and frustration to the process of healing.
OTC Misrepresentation: Many ingredients are available OTC at higher or comparable concentrations. For example:
Azelaic acid: Some platforms offer 5%, but OTC products like The Ordinary have 10% for $7.90.
Niacinamide: Some platforms includes 4%, while The Ordinary offers 10% for $5.90.
Tranexamic acid: Some platforms includ 2%, available OTC at Sephora for $14.
Efficacy Concerns: Prescription-strength medications, like tretinoin, are often included in lower, less effective concentrations.
Why a Dermatologist Is Still the Best Option
Dermatologists routinely provide tailored, evidence-based treatments and can differentiate skin conditions accurately. Telehealth with a board-certified dermatologist is now widely available, offering professional care and access to prescription medications or effective OTC alternatives.
DIY Alternatives to Online Platforms
If you’re considering an online platform for its convenience, you can recreate its benefits with OTC products:
Azelaic Acid: Available in 10% concentrations from The Ordinary or Paula’s Choice.
Niacinamide: Look for The Ordinary or The Inkey List for affordable options.
Tranexamic Acid: Sephora’s Inkey List offers 2% for a fraction of many of these platform's price.
By combining these ingredients at home, you save money while maintaining control over your skincare routine.
Should You Consider Compounded Prescriptions?
Dermatologists can prescribe compounded medications for unique needs, but they’re not always practical. Many pre-made generics already exist for most skincare concerns. When necessary, compounding pharmacies can create specific formulations, but the cost and complexity may outweigh the benefits.
The Verdict on Customized Skincare
Customized skincare by online platforms may offer convenience, but often repackage OTC ingredients at higher prices. For many, consulting a dermatologist for a tailored regimen—including effective, affordable OTC and Rx products—is a better choice. The rise of telehealth makes it easier than ever to access expert care.
If you’re looking for affordable and effective skincare solutions, brands like The Ordinary and The Inkey List offer accessible, high-quality options that dermatologists trust. Think of these brands as your skincare “spice rack” to mix and match ingredients that truly work for your skin.
Final Thoughts
While online platforms offers an innovative approach to skincare, it’s not a substitute for professional care. Dermatologists provide personalized treatment backed by science, addressing conditions with precision and care. Whether you’re considering customized skincare or exploring DIY options, make informed choices that prioritize your skin’s health and long-term well-being.
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